We had a recent question about Lung worm and irritated lungs in a goat, as well as wanting to be ready for an upcoming kidding. I'm sharing my notes.
Besides helping her body be a place that lungworm doesn't want to reside (DWA (tm)) she may need some additional lung support. If she has damage there- remember that is tender tissue that can be irritated with every breath containing particulate in it (ever see dusty barn air in a sunbeam?) I would look at BreatheDeeplee(tm) herb mix to give that support. It will take some time as the lungs aren't allowed to rest while they heal themselves.
I will also list other suggestions based on info in your email. Do or don't do as you feel led.
If you want for her you could also consider MMune (tm) as she probably is more susceptible to other potential issues at this time.
IF you think she may have a bacterial or viral issue starting (WATCH HER FOR ANY SIGN OF FEVER!) or if you just want to rule that out before there would be problems please look at HerBiotic (tm) herb mix.
For your pregnant doe if you want look at BetterDaze(tm) herb mix.
Kop-Sel if you are in a selenium/copper deficient area for support if you want herbal support.
PrePare(tm) for prekidding reproductive organ support.
Ewe-Ter-N(tm) herb mix given on kidding day, just before (or sometimes during) kidding, and after if afterbirth doesn't drop in 20 minutes.
GI Soother(tm) is extremely popular for raising kids that are in coccidia or barberpole areas.
Blessings every single one of you in your farm and family this year!!! And yes, I count farm critters as family :).
Thank you! We're new to dairy goats, have been reading your book (love it! Watching for more books too) and are on our way to raising our small herd naturally. Thank you very much for all the educational material you have out and continue to offer. CL in Pennsylvania
What are you waiting for??? Get yours today! Signed by the Author :D
"But I don't have coyotes" your mind is telling you. The truth is you probably do. They cruise through rural, suburban and even sometimes city areas of 49 of our states and all of Canada. February & March they tend to be the most aggressive as they enter breeding season along with reduced rodent availability. Male coyotes can become extremely aggressive due to increased testosterone levels and increases in fighting with other males. After that hunting increases to feed their quickly growing pups. Fall of course encourages them to hunt extra to try to put on extra weight for winter and winter of course faces it's own challenges. We have seen coyotes all hours of the daytime and of course hear them out at night (we have at least three distinct packs in our neighborhood). They've been sighted off in the distance, in neighbor's yards and even just a step outside of our livestock containing fencing! Fencing without a guardian in it of course can be dug under, squeezed through or under or sometimes jumped over from a log or pile of manure or other item that a careless stock owner leaves too close to the fence. Coyotes only require a few inches to squeeze under or through something. Check your fencing regularly to avoid this.
As livestock and pet owners there are many concerns with coyotes. One is the spread of parvo through their feces. Another is the well known fact that they delight in hunting dogs and cats as a part of their menu, even snatching them off of porches. Even your guardian dogs aren't 100% safe from them. This is why. Several years ago we watched the audacity of one coyote in the afternoon run back and forth along the fenceline with our guardian dogs going bananas just on the other side. What was that trouble maker up to? He knew he couldn't get in and with dogs right there he wouldn't try. What he was doing and what they try to do is to get a dog or two to come after them. Suicidal? No. Hunting? Yes! If they can coerce your guardian or other dog to dig out, squeeze out or go over for a chase they will lead your dog right into an ambush by the pack. End of dog. One guardian or two guardians have no way to take on a pack of coyotes in a planned ambush.
Coyotes are ruthless in their hunting. When going after livestock (or deer, elk, etc) their main strategy is do distract and attack from the front to keep their prey's attention while one or more go for the hamstring or scrotum at the rear. As soon as they bring their animal down they don't finish the kill. They just start eating. Sick and evil, but true. They also are very well known for pulling baby livestock away during birthing- even before the baby is completely out of the birth canal! Always keep your mares, jennies, cattle and small livestock if possible in a coyote proof pen close in when birthing, and / or keep guardians with them. They generally target pets and small livestock (including your immature large livestock), but if they are real hungry they will also target large stock. I also had a horse about twenty years ago that sustained an injury to his face from hitting the fence while running coyotes off.
Ways to avoid coyotes on your place is by keeping good strong fencing on borders where possible along with a guardian or guardians on the inside. Guardian dogs, llamas, occasionally an alpaca male, and donkeys are all commonly used for livestock guardians. There are pros and cons to each form so you'll need to decide which is right for you. Electric fencing can be used but it a maintenance issue if placed on the outside of the fence due to grass and brush growth. Solar powered electric web fencing is very expensive but works well for those that need to get a fence up quick in a new location. It's most commonly used for small livestock and poultry.
Coyotes are very difficult to shoot. My husband has been able to drop one in all of our years together. But certainly if you have safety training and it's legal for you to shoot where you are, this is another method to try to narrow down the ranks. If you are having to shoot onto a neighbor's property to get them be sure you have their permission. Don't count on being able to get very many this way though unless you live in an area where you can set up with a light, calls etc in areas where it's legal to hunt them that way.
Remember that while coyotes are wiley, your number one most likely predator damage is going to be from DOGS- from your neighborhood, your own, or strays wandering through. We get clients from all three scenarios. Please have a plan to keep them out of your stock.
May you never ever ever have a problem from these beautiful but rotten thieves. We are here to help you with herbal aftercare should you have an animal or animals that ever experience predator damage. See our great products at www.firmeadowllc.com . Look for Better Daze, Cayenne extract or herb powder, Wounderful! Salve and ReBuilld herb mix to radically support the healing process. Blessings ALL OF YOU!!!
KM in Southern Oregon wrote, " thanks! I've been using 3-5 day protocol of GI soother and DWorm every 3-6 months for my Donkeys for past 5 years. Vet did fecal last week and they are clean. How awesome is that!?"
Climate- Moderate to low temperature wet winters and springs with little snow, hot dry summers into mid fall.
Lovely, just lovely" were my thoughts as a kid as I tediously scraped pale gold colored eggs from my pale gold colored pony's legs, flanks, withers and shoulder areas. Had I left them on my pony (Sunshine); she would have ingested them as she itched her legs. Now that we're back in bot country I'll be having to deal with them again. Here is a great alternative approach to dealing with these nutrient stealing, stomach tissue ulcerating parasites.
I like to have my equine companion at a hitching post or cross tie area while working on removing eggs. The reason is that any eggs attached to hairs that happen to get dropped to the ground is still an egg that could get ingested to restart the lifecycle. So I definately want my horse away from areas they may eat or graze. I take a quart of very warm just over 100 degrees water and add some lavender, oregano and clove essential oil (7 drops of each of oils that are our strength) we have those on our website if you don't have them. http://www.firmeadowllc.com/store/c3/Essential_Oils.html
Then I soak my cloth well in the very warm mix hold onto a leg or wherever the eggs are until eggs and/or larvae are coming off on the cloth and hatching. Once they get enough oil contact they will die. I then rerinse the cloth in the very warm water and repeat in a new location. This should be done every other day until you've done three sets as eggs may mature at different times for hatch depending on bot species. If you want to run a trial by doing your first soak without the oils to get an idea of how long it takes on your animal and water temperature for larvae to be moving onto the cloth you can. It can be as little as 25 or 30 seconds or as much as a couple minutes depending on water temperature (outdoor temperature affects how long your water stays warm enough) as well as cleanliness and thickness of hair.
You can mix 3 drops of each of those three oils into 1 1/2 tbsp olive oil and smooth that onto any remaining eggs for inbetween your soaks.
I also make sure my horses are current on parasite products. Of course here at Fir Meadow we use our herbal DWorm A. I just mix it in their mash and feed. EZ.
Herb Mix DWorm A 16 oz (all creatures) Click to buy it now if you like. Great for pregnant mares and foals too!
B Very Blessed!
Katherine MH, CR, CA, CEIT, DipHIr, QTP has extensive alternative training in Vitalistic (cause oriented) wellness,including a Master's Degree in Herbology and has a heart to share with you so that you, your family and your creatures may achieve abundant wellness.