In honor of spring it's time to do Spring Cleaning- in YOU :). Every few years I cleanse for an entire year- bowels, liver/kidneys, bloodstream, metals in order and some concurrently.
Every season I do a short 10 to 14 day tune up. Longer if I get into something bad or some exposure to something- like when I was chlorine poisoned in a pool and hottub at a hotel last year. Winter and holidays 'expose' many people to way too much sugar, overeating and processed, baked or cooked foods...
And- even my organic kale in my garden- get's rained on and the first rain you know has toxins in it from cleaning the air- even though we are in a quite pristine area close to the saltwater on the west coast without major industry...
products can be purchased at www.firmeadowllc.com BELOW RETAIL!!!
Lower Bowel helps the Intestinal area heal itself https://www.firmeadowllc.com/store/p286/Capsules_Lower_Bowel_Formula_100.html
Liver and Gallbladder support -DO NOT START until you are regularly having 2-4 regular bowel movements per day- one per meal and one when you get up.
Kidney can be started any time. Caffeine drinker or eater (chocolate, pop, coffee, Kambucha, Green/black teas, energy drinks, etc) you might just want to stay on this all the time (or please consider dropping the caffeine)
Heavy metals (do the others first :) ).
BLESSINGS ALL :D :D :D :D :D
This is a question I receive frequently. Especially from those with only a couple of animals or those using a product with small pets.
If it's a high quality product like the ones we make available to you they can be kept nearly indefinately. The 'best by' date will generally be two years from manufacture, but I've had a customer use even a seven year old product stored incorrectly at higher doses with excellent support. I don't recommend that however!
Your best approach when you get a new herb mix is to take out the amount of product you will use for a month or two. Just pour it out- don't contaminate the contents within the bag and do not get it moist in the bag. Then reseal and enclose in a freezer bag. Writing the date on it with a permanent marker is another good step. Then put it in your freezer. Ta da! It will keep pretty much forever.
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Katherine MH, CR, CA, CEIT, DipHIr, QTP has extensive alternative training in Vitalistic (cause oriented) wellness,including a Master's Degree in Herbology and is a lifelong pet, poultry, horse and livestock owner. She has a heart to share with you so that you, your family and your creatures may achieve abundant wellness. Be Blessed!
These statements have not been reviewed by the Food and Drug Administration and are not intended to treat, cure, prevent or diagnose any disease.
Vitamin B12 sources for healthy nerves, blood cells and DNA. Just finished a Q and A in the goat journal. Which herbs/foods in the picture can you identify? Hippocrates said let your food be your medicine and your medicine be your food. This is a great example of that. And yes all of the macro and micro nutrients a body needs whether human or animal is available from plants. Even the ones that science hasn't discovered yet. This is one of the reasons why our whole herb product BetterDaze(tm) is so popular. www.firmeadowllc.com We also have herbs and products availbale for people on our website at a discounted price :).
Ginger root, Alfalfa, Red clover, Cayenne, Dandelion leaf/flower, Kelp, Cayenne (not for liver damaged individuals).
*Is your dam milking less than you expected for her genetics or previous records? Did she have a rough birthing start? Did she come to you with a heavy parasite load or not with the care you would want every animal to have had? Hope is on the way!
The consideration to pay attention to is parasite issues. An animal feeding parasites and being damaged by them simply can not milk their genetic potential to give their babies a shot at getting a great start on reaching their genetic potential. Parasites that hang out in the blood stream and other locations put a serious drain on your dam, reducing her ability to produce milk and often having a negative ability on milk quality and taste.
Being sure their intestines (large and small) can absorb nutrition to the best of their ability is also important. Parasites that lurk directly in the GI Tract (ones known to hemorrhage intestinal tissue and cause bloody diarrhea) as well as conditions that caused intestinal scar tissue in animals that had rough beginnings or times in their lives benefit from supporting these organs so that they are able to fully utilize the nutrition they ingest.
Also consider the dip in immunity a few weeks before through a few weeks after parturition. This is about a one month time period for small livestock, a bit less for pets, and about 6 - 8 weeks for large stock. This also makes them more susceptible to parasites as well as other conditions. We love using MMune™ for this support.
Access to fresh clean (and not chilling ice cold!) water is extremely important for milk production since milk is approximately 90 - 95% water. Also be sure there are no electrical currents coming from power cords/lines/ fencing under wet ground or bedding or in proximity to the water tank that prevents your animals from consuming the water they would like to have.
Very nutritious mineral dense foods such as alfalfa and kelp as well as access to seasalt are important to the diet of all animals: poultry, livestock and pets for optimum production. We also love using the very popular BetterDaze ™ for supporting all creatures great and small.
Being sure that there are not any other underlying wellness issues or subclinical infections from birthing is another consideration for milk production. For traditional wellness support I use HerBiotic ™ in our herds.
Having addressed all of those items-and knowing that your animal is other healthy brings us to using the product we abosolutely love for lactation support: MilkMaid™ to give those hardworking lactating dams what their body needs so that it can produce their best quantity AND best quality of milk possible for that superior next generation that you bred for. https://www.firmeadowllc.com/store/p885/Herb_Mix_MilkMaid_%28tm%29__8_oz.html
Other products at www.firmeadowllc.com to consider under products & herb mixes are:
Better Daze™ https://www.firmeadowllc.com/store/p418/Herb_Mix_BetterDaze%E2%84%A2__8_oz.html
HerBiotic ™ https://www.firmeadowllc.com/store/p812/Herb_Mix_HerBiotic%E2%84%A2_Wellness_Support_4_oz.html
Wishing you blessings multiplied, happy milkers and happy babies to you and your farm!
*The Food and Drug Administration has not approved any of these statements and they are not intended to cure, prevent, treat or diagnose any disease.
So let's think about parasites for a minute.
At any one time a creature (including many humans - ick I know) will have all stages of a parasite or parasite types from eggs to juveniles to adults within their system over an average of a 21 day life cycle. The most common ones get into systems by ingestion. Whether that is eating contaminated food in a feeder, off the ground or in the pasture or drinking contaminated water. Eggs, larvae, flea bites, slug ingestion, inhaling airborne worm ovum and even skin contact with some such as hookworm. Some of these live off of the food in the GI Tract, some of them attach to the host and live off of the nutrients in the blood stream or even the blood itself.
Now thinking like a Vitalist (cause oriented) rather than an allopath (symptom oriented) let's think about using an extract for GI System residing parasites. Yes it can be effective. In those cases you will want to fast the animal so that the extract comes into physical contact with more of the parasites in the intestines as it moves through them. It will of course also be absorbed into the blood stream and run through cells and for those parasites drinking blood they will be getting it in their lunch. Now if you are working with a ruminant keep in mind that very little of the product will make it into the intestines, but it will still make it into the bloodstream. So in my opinion as a Master of Herbology extracts are best used for simple stomached creatures as well as for parasites that reside in other areas of the body. For many people extracts are easier to give as they can be added to waters or carefully given by dropper by mouth in the case of smaller pets.
Now consider using an herb powder. Herb powders, on the average, in a reasonably healthy stomached individual will start absorbing phytochemicals (plant nutritional components) into the bloodstream in about twenty minutes. In ruminating animals more of that product is then put into the cud, chewed further and then a much larger percentage makes it into the intestinal tract. You also have a larger amount of plant mass entering the rumen and / or intestinal tracts then you do with an extract, so that more herb is coming in direct contact with worm ovum and parasite bodies. So for GI residing parasites in animals and especially those still eating (not fasting which is dangerous for milking stock and third trimester stock) my personal preference is to use high quality whole herb powder products that are synergestically blended.
We offer two: DWA(tm) and GI Soother(tm). Both products can be responsibly used with any age and type of animal with no milk, meat, egg or pregnancy withdrawals.
GI Soother(tm) is incredibly popular with raising youngstock and especially for foreign living matter that can hemorrhage a creature quickly.
DWA(tm) is useful for foreign living matter issues occuring in multiple body locations.
Both products support the body's attempt to do what it was created to do in these situations.
For animals that are really struggling we also encourage the use of MMune(tm) to give the body additional immune system support.
For animals that are or have been really struggling we also like to consider BetterDaze(tm) for additional wellness support with its very mindful collection of herbs historically used for a wide range of phytochemical components.
Here's to a very happy and healthy season for you and all of the creatures under your loving care!
Look for other articles in our blog on parasites and on giving herbs.
All of you in the cold snap areas please remember to bundle yourselves well and stay safe. You will need extra calories to stay warm. Protect your skin! Please make sure your animals (even pigs) have extra grass hay accessible to help them create warmth and deep bedding.
Be sure they are in areas where the wind and weather can stay off of them and not blow in from the sides. Some overhead fresh air movement is good- I like mine at the eight foot level so it's not near me when standing or my stock.
Fragile, old, or very young animals may need to be in a heated area such as a milkroom, tackroom area, enclosed heatable stall or even a back porch or extra bathroom (40 degrees for a room is plenty warm as long as they have good food and bedding). Be extremely wary of heat lamps which are responsible for many barn fires. They can shatter if they fall, if an animal bumps into one, or if an animal shakes their head and spashes water droplets on it.
Offer warm water to drink if possible with black strap molasses (not feed store, but health food store) in it for more b vitamins. You can also put a large pinch of cayenne herb powder per large goat, a small pinch per small goat in their water to help them with endurance, more b's and help warm their core more and support their heart. Fragile animals can be carefully drenched with their cayenne if you mix it with one or two ounces of water.
BIG HUGS From All of us at Fir Meadow LLC
Yes you can store herbs for long term! Our products (www.firmeadowllc.com) are Best by generally two years from date of manufacture although we have had customers use products up to seven year old with favorable results (not recommended!).
The enemies to your herb blends are heat, greatly fluctuating temperatures, light, age and moisture so those are the situations we want to avoid for them. For herbs to be used within the next month or two often keeping them in their packaging and in a cupboard is sufficient. Herbs and blends that you will be keeping for longer than two months I suggest that one pull out a couple of months worth and keep that in the barn in a sealed freezer bag, lidded canning jar (be careful around concrete!), or a sealable plastic jar remembering to store it out of direct light. Also be sure to use a clean spoon or scoop and do not get any moisture into either container. The remainder can be kept in the original packaging in the house in a cabinet.
For those that want to store herbs beyond a year or two or for seasonally used products (like Ewe-Ter-N) I suggest you double bag the product you don't plan to be using that year and place it in the freezer. Most herbs as long as you didn't introduce moisture to them will keep for years in that manner.
If one is making an infusion (strong herbal tea) any excess can be kept for up to three days in the refrigerator. Excess can be frozen in ice cube trays and double freezer bagged for later use. I would use twice the amount for any cubes that I pulled from the freezer. Always put the current date on any bags of cubes.
For those making dosage balls with black strap molasses, organic peanut butter or raw honey which do not have a water content you can keep excess balls in the refrigerator for approximately a week. I would store them on a lower shelf since cold settles usually making that the coldest area of your fridge. Any that you'd like to keep longer than that double freezer bag and keep in your freezer. You may want to freeze them on a parchment paper covered cookie sheet before you bag them so they don't freeze together.
Herbs can also be stored indefinately in alcohol and for multiple years in raw organic apple cider vinegar and then straining the liquid before using. They can also be kept in olive oil this way for approximately two years. Remember to keep these out of light, to use sterilized containers and to label them with a date.
We had a recent question about Lung worm and irritated lungs in a goat, as well as wanting to be ready for an upcoming kidding. I'm sharing my notes.
Besides helping her body be a place that lungworm doesn't want to reside (DWA (tm)) she may need some additional lung support. If she has damage there- remember that is tender tissue that can be irritated with every breath containing particulate in it (ever see dusty barn air in a sunbeam?) I would look at BreatheDeeplee(tm) herb mix to give that support. It will take some time as the lungs aren't allowed to rest while they heal themselves.
I will also list other suggestions based on info in your email. Do or don't do as you feel led.
If you want for her you could also consider MMune (tm) as she probably is more susceptible to other potential issues at this time.
IF you think she may have a bacterial or viral issue starting (WATCH HER FOR ANY SIGN OF FEVER!) or if you just want to rule that out before there would be problems please look at HerBiotic (tm) herb mix.
For your pregnant doe if you want look at BetterDaze(tm) herb mix.
Kop-Sel if you are in a selenium/copper deficient area for support if you want herbal support.
PrePare(tm) for prekidding reproductive organ support.
Ewe-Ter-N(tm) herb mix given on kidding day, just before (or sometimes during) kidding, and after if afterbirth doesn't drop in 20 minutes.
GI Soother(tm) is extremely popular for raising kids that are in coccidia or barberpole areas.
Blessings every single one of you in your farm and family this year!!! And yes, I count farm critters as family :).
For almost two decades we have gotten much of our health food store types of items at WHOLESALE pricing through Azure Standard. YOU can too! They offer drop off locations in much of the United States and of course offer UPS. Since they are an Oregon based business they also don't charge sales tax :D. In our area we are able to pick up products every two weeks, in some areas it's once per month. We also don't have to pay shipping as long as our orders are at least $50 which is EZ to do.
Check them out and sign up through this link. They will give me a credit and you will be able to start shopping at a great discount. They even offer sales! This is a great place to get that 50# bag of cold water kelp, bulk raw organic apple cider vinegar or a gallon of black strap molasses!
Blessings All of you :) Katherine
Thank you! We're new to dairy goats, have been reading your book (love it! Watching for more books too) and are on our way to raising our small herd naturally. Thank you very much for all the educational material you have out and continue to offer. CL in Pennsylvania
What are you waiting for??? Get yours today! Signed by the Author :D
Do you wish you didn't have to rely on synthetic nutrient excito toxin storebought products? Look no further! I love making this for my does, alpacas and mares after they birth. It's easy to stir into warm water which most animals will readily slurp up. Serve it immediately after birthing. It can also be offered during prolonged birthing (in that case I also offer up Ewe-Ter-N(tm) which supplies what the body needs to enable it to have well timed efficient contractions and usually a faster expulsion of the afterbirth).
Combine Black Strap molasses, olive oil, cayenne and BetterDaze(tm) herb mix with enough hot water to make it easy to drench (or add it to their grain, mash or water).
The molasses needs to be Black Strap unsulphured. The cheaper grades are primarily sugar and very little mineral, which will weaken your animal's muscular strength and remove some minerals from their body). It provides valuable iron in a safe form as well as many other minerals and B vitamins to help support a tired or stressed body. This is often a health food store item. 50 - 100 lb animals get 1/2 tablespoon, 100 to 200 lb animals get 1 tbsp, 200-400 lb animals get 2 tbsp (1/8 cup). 400 to 800 lb animals get 3 tbsp. 800- 1300 lb animals get 1/2 cup.
The olive oil provides easy to utilize calories as well as being soothing to the digestive system. Give the same dose as the molasses.
Cayenne ideally should be 35,000 heat unit if organic to 40,000 heat unit potency. I use a small pinch with animals under 100 lbs, a large pinch for 100 - 200 lb animals, 1/8 tsp for 200-400 lbs, 1/4 tsp for 400 - 800 lbs and 1/2 tsp for 800 - 1300 lb creatures. It it another great source of B vitamins during stress as well as a high quality Vitamin C source. It helps support animals that are shocky, will help the body stop bleeding or hemorrhaging (I give it orally mixed with water and give it vaginally mixed with water or olive oil) and helps supply endurance.
BetterDaze(tm) herb mix supplies a wide range of easy to utilize vitamins, minerals and nutrients which are perfect for supporting the dam and her tired body. Follow dosages on the label. It can be purchased here https://www.firmeadowllc.com/store/p418/Herb_Mix_BetterDaze%E2%84%A2_Nutritional_Supplement_OG-WC_8_oz.html if you don't already have it on hand. It's also a great product to support your babies towards reaching their genetic potential.
May all of you have the most beautiful and successful babies this year!
Here's some afternoon stats from a 51 year old gal! Nope. Not on meds either.... The verdict? 20 year old insides :D. That is far improved over my health in my twenties!
Blood pressure 104/60 , 92/62, 100/58.
Pulse is 44 (marathon runner pulse- which I am not- BUT I practice 30 minutes of yoga stretching & breath 3 to 6 days per week).
Oxygen ranges from 98 to 99.
Cholesterol ratios- HDL 2.7 (stay under 5)
LDL/HDL - 1.57 ( normal range .6 to 4.3)
Triglycerides- 51 (0-150)
negatives for diuretic and beta blocker drugs
Kidneys: Bun 8 (9-26)
Creatinine .7 (.6-1.1)
Urine pH 5.7 (4.0 - 8.7) I eat more meat in the winter months than in the summer where I'm nearly vegan.
Protein (checks for spillage in urine indicating kidney disease) 2 (0-30),
Leukocytes and hemoglobins screens negative
creatinine 60 (27 - 260)
protein/creatinine ratio .03 (.0 - .20)
Liver: Alkaline phosphatase 62 (30 -115)
total bilirubin .5 (.2-1.2)
AST 14 (12 - 35)
ALT 14 (9-42)
GGT 10 (10-65)
Total protein 7.1 (6.1-8.2)
Albumin 4.3 (3.8-5.2)
Globulin 2.8 (2.1-3.5)
negative for hiv, cotinine (nicotine derivative)
blood glucose 75 (60-109)
urine glucose negative
A1c 5.8 (3.0 - 6.0) measures blood sugar over past several weeks. I will blame that on chocolate!
BTW my husbands last test at age 61 was
Yes, 20 years old inside :) and also healthier than he was in his twenties.
Consultations available for those that would like to help their bodies improve wellness levels naturally! When we are talking about health you want to work with someone that can prove that what they do WORKS. Much more than theory!
www.firmeadowllc.com BLESSINGS ALL OF YOU!!!
Here are some natural, whole herb, thoughtfully build and popular products to help you support your dogs or other animals in dealing with this and other parasite issues.
For my creatures I would want to give DWormA(tm) to them every two hours the first day (waking hours) double dosed from regular label dose. Then 4x a day for 2 days and then 3 x a day for 3 days. If possible fast your animal on the first day. Do not fast them if they are pregnant or very weak. It can also be used with any nonsymptomatic animals. Since the three month the life cycle is so long on whips, they can have them for a long time before they shed any eggs to catch in a fecal. They also tend to be tricky to catch by fecal since they reside way down in the Cecum (between the small intestine and the ascending colon). The herbs will not harm any dog or animal that doesn't need it, but rather will nourish them. Then consider anywhere from giving it once a day for two times a week, to 6 out of 7 days each week if you want to feed it that often you can. Their eggs can stay in the environment for years including through heavy freezes so once you find your animals have had these it's very important to stay on a regular program. Clean what you can in their environment. This product also helps the body deal with any possible hemorrhaging that could be caused by that parasitic load.
Other considerations include their interior intestinal environment that allows parasites to flourish. I would use BetterBowels(tm) on non livestock animals if I ran into that problem. Livestock don't usually need this due to the large amounts of roughage that they eat. Start the bowel product the second week after beginning the DWorm A. Try not to give them at the same time. Dogs that are on processed food (kibble) or cooked food and /or those that strain to defecate are more susceptible to parasites than those that are raised raw food (assuming there is a large quantity of raw fruit and vegetables in that raw diet). Lightly steamed is fine.
BetterDaze(tm) herb mix will give their bodies what they need to supernourish the blood and cells that the parasites have stripped. It will also provide what their body needs to rebuild iron in the bloodstream, safely helping the body to recover itself from an anemia issues and do so naturally.
MMune(tm) herb mix can be used to support any animals dealing with immunity issues which also makes them more susceptible to parasites. Animals near birthing (about ten percent of their gestation before they birth and ten percent afterwards will naturally have reduced immune system function that parasites like to take advantage of and of course having parasites compromises immunity of the host.
All of these products can be found under products and then herb mixes at www.firmeadowllc.com where we offer hope to those facing challenges with their human and animal families!
Wild birds are so fun to watch. We have several species that visit our feeders and we love to identify and watch them. But what about those in our barn or with our chickens? Now that's another story! Birds of course can leave waste in feeders and spread diseases to poultry as they hop around going after stray feed. Birds can as hop on coccidia and then hop in your animal feeders and place their coccidia, e coli , etcetera onto their eating areas. So it's better if they do not mix with your animal feeding areas.
There are a few things one can do to minimize or avoid these things. First is if you like to feed birds as we do, is to keep their feeding stations far from poultry and livestock feeding areas. Another thing is to only feed your poultry and stock what they can consume at that feeding and to feed it in containers that avoid waste. Feeders that can be picked up and moved after feeding should be removed and put in a feed room or other place not accessible to them. Also, most birds will enter your barns or sheds from higher. Closing off gaps between eves and other openings with one inch poultry wire or woven hardware cloth so that fresh air movement is still allowed over head but birds aren't allowed to land and hop in will reduce the amount of birds entering your barn areas. Even old screening can often be obtained for free and be upcycled this way. Keeping barn doors closed when possible also helps. Also keeping a barn cat (keep it healthy & chlamydia free!) in the barn can also reduce wild bird populations. I personally don't do this because of problems with cats using hay for their bathroom. For poultry's safety from wild birds (as well as weasels!) it is best to use a one inch poultry netting for their pens, housing, chicken tractor and supplemental feeding areas. Two inch netting, while cheaper, allows birds and small predators in. It also deteriorates faster allowing foxes and raccoons a greater likelihood of getting to your birds.
Another way to combat this is to be sure your animals and poultry are the healthiest they can possibly be! We achieve this by supplementing poultry with LayNLayer herb mix or BetterDaze herb mix as well as decrease their parasite challenges with DWormA and GI Soother for coccidial challenges and MMune herb mix for any that need that additional support for their immune systems such as weak, old, recovering or senior creatures. For livestock we offer the same products (of course they don't need the LayNLayer!).
BLESSINGS TO ALL OF YOU- YOU, YOUR HUMAN FAMILY AND YOUR CREATURE FAMILY :D
"But I don't have coyotes" your mind is telling you. The truth is you probably do. They cruise through rural, suburban and even sometimes city areas of 49 of our states and all of Canada. February & March they tend to be the most aggressive as they enter breeding season along with reduced rodent availability. Male coyotes can become extremely aggressive due to increased testosterone levels and increases in fighting with other males. After that hunting increases to feed their quickly growing pups. Fall of course encourages them to hunt extra to try to put on extra weight for winter and winter of course faces it's own challenges. We have seen coyotes all hours of the daytime and of course hear them out at night (we have at least three distinct packs in our neighborhood). They've been sighted off in the distance, in neighbor's yards and even just a step outside of our livestock containing fencing! Fencing without a guardian in it of course can be dug under, squeezed through or under or sometimes jumped over from a log or pile of manure or other item that a careless stock owner leaves too close to the fence. Coyotes only require a few inches to squeeze under or through something. Check your fencing regularly to avoid this.
As livestock and pet owners there are many concerns with coyotes. One is the spread of parvo through their feces. Another is the well known fact that they delight in hunting dogs and cats as a part of their menu, even snatching them off of porches. Even your guardian dogs aren't 100% safe from them. This is why. Several years ago we watched the audacity of one coyote in the afternoon run back and forth along the fenceline with our guardian dogs going bananas just on the other side. What was that trouble maker up to? He knew he couldn't get in and with dogs right there he wouldn't try. What he was doing and what they try to do is to get a dog or two to come after them. Suicidal? No. Hunting? Yes! If they can coerce your guardian or other dog to dig out, squeeze out or go over for a chase they will lead your dog right into an ambush by the pack. End of dog. One guardian or two guardians have no way to take on a pack of coyotes in a planned ambush.
Coyotes are ruthless in their hunting. When going after livestock (or deer, elk, etc) their main strategy is do distract and attack from the front to keep their prey's attention while one or more go for the hamstring or scrotum at the rear. As soon as they bring their animal down they don't finish the kill. They just start eating. Sick and evil, but true. They also are very well known for pulling baby livestock away during birthing- even before the baby is completely out of the birth canal! Always keep your mares, jennies, cattle and small livestock if possible in a coyote proof pen close in when birthing, and / or keep guardians with them. They generally target pets and small livestock (including your immature large livestock), but if they are real hungry they will also target large stock. I also had a horse about twenty years ago that sustained an injury to his face from hitting the fence while running coyotes off.
Ways to avoid coyotes on your place is by keeping good strong fencing on borders where possible along with a guardian or guardians on the inside. Guardian dogs, llamas, occasionally an alpaca male, and donkeys are all commonly used for livestock guardians. There are pros and cons to each form so you'll need to decide which is right for you. Electric fencing can be used but it a maintenance issue if placed on the outside of the fence due to grass and brush growth. Solar powered electric web fencing is very expensive but works well for those that need to get a fence up quick in a new location. It's most commonly used for small livestock and poultry.
Coyotes are very difficult to shoot. My husband has been able to drop one in all of our years together. But certainly if you have safety training and it's legal for you to shoot where you are, this is another method to try to narrow down the ranks. If you are having to shoot onto a neighbor's property to get them be sure you have their permission. Don't count on being able to get very many this way though unless you live in an area where you can set up with a light, calls etc in areas where it's legal to hunt them that way.
Remember that while coyotes are wiley, your number one most likely predator damage is going to be from DOGS- from your neighborhood, your own, or strays wandering through. We get clients from all three scenarios. Please have a plan to keep them out of your stock.
May you never ever ever have a problem from these beautiful but rotten thieves. We are here to help you with herbal aftercare should you have an animal or animals that ever experience predator damage. See our great products at www.firmeadowllc.com . Look for Better Daze, Cayenne extract or herb powder, Wounderful! Salve and ReBuilld herb mix to radically support the healing process. Blessings ALL OF YOU!!!